Good Friday in Madrid

Sound track of the day:
When I met you I was all alone
Cold and hungry crying on the phone
You baked me brownies and said don’t you cry
You gave me a coat off your back, Suzanne

Current Temperature: Today was the most beautiful day I’ve had in weeks. My mood and outlook has changed entirely.

Culture clash: Attention all travelers – do NOT visit a catholic country on holy week unless you too are a devout catholic.



Even though all sites and museums are closed today, it turned out to be a very nice day. My first stop was the Museo del Prado, the city’s most prestigious museum, based on a recommendation from Miguel Sanchez of HEC. However, it was closed for the holiday. Figures.

That didn’t sog my cheerios, because the grounds of the museum were a site all on their own. Surrounded by immaculate landscaping and outdoor sculptures I had enough to tease my eyes, and my camera. Out front of the museum is part of an installation (I didn’t take down the artist’s name) in which giant metal statues are seated playing flutes or clarinets. This part of the installation had two of those statues positioned back to back. They appeared to be made of copper, maybe bronze. I’m no expert on metals, but they were made of some copper or bronze colored metal.

Around the corner at the side of the museum is another entrance up a short case of stairs. That climb gave me a nice view of the square around me and I could see across Paseo del Prado to a huge fountain at Plaza de Neptune. Upon closer examination I concluded that the fountain had a large statue of Neptune with his army of sea horses. Does every major European city have this? Would that mean that the one in Athens would be the most grand?

To my pleasure the Botanical Gardens were open. As soon as I heard there was a botanical garden I knew I’d visit. After paying a visit today with an entrance fee of 2.5 euro (take that Brooklyn!) I decided I would visit this place every day during my stay in Madrid, weather permitting.

Back to my nugget of advice above: other than restaurants and the internet café around the corner nothing was open today. No museums or public offices, no banks or schools. So after an afternoon of site seeing, I took a break at a local restaurant called Café Cervantes on Calle de Leon. I sat in the bar area, ordered a glass of red wine and salmon tosta and pulled out my note book and did some writing. What else could I do right? One glass turned into two, each accompanied by a cigarette. Smoking indoors is well and alive here in Spain, and if you have to endure it why not enjoy the vice? In Spain, they give you a snack (tapa, I suppose) with every drink you order. So with my two glasses of wine I had a serving of prosciutto and tomato and a plate of olives. Odd that they served ham on good Friday, no?

Everyone, and I mean EVERYONE (except restaurant employees) was out on the streets today. They strolled along very leisurely or stopped into bars and cafes for refreshment. So after a late afternoon nap, when I decided to go for a light run, I found myself taking a slow walk instead. Between the crowds of people, old and young, meandering down narrow streets and families lined up along barricades waiting for effigy of Christ on a cross to be marched past them the attempt to run turned out be futile. Back on my own street the procession had already begun and I decided to join the crowd. How I wish I had my camera.

I am not Catholic and only know some traditions of faith through my Catholic father and friends, but I have always been moved by the level of devotion displayed by those who are true believers. As I watched the giant statue of Jesus float by over the crowd a brass band marched behind playing the most beautiful and dramatic songs I had ever heard a marching band play. The sounds were a delicate massage to my ears, gently weaving their melodies in the air around us. I have NEVER heard such emotion come from a marching band. Pushing through the crowd to get to my hotel doorway I finally caught up to Jesus and stood watch as 24 priests held him up on a platform that rested on their shoulders. Their solemn expressions and the attention of the crowd took my breath away, as did the immense layer of incense being tossed around by altar boys. If only I caught the name of that marching band, I’d really like to look them up. I’m sure they belong to a church and therefore don’t do public events but I’d like to be able to give them some credit.

Things to buy tomorrow:
Comb
Wash towel
Toothbrush because I accidentally took Jen’s (no farmacias open today either!)

On tonight’s menu:
Spring rolls
Pork loin
At Mezklum on Calle Principe, I do not recommend

Cucumber cocktail – however stop by for this drink